How to Remove Fungus from a Lens

Obstructed obsolete lenses often suffer from fungi that parasite on lenses and this is usually where enlightenment is applied. The fungi that eat these layers are about 300 species. They are all around us, and from the first day of use of optics, their spores are inevitably falling into the lens.
When there are no favorable conditions such as moisture and darkness, they do not develop and cause no harm, but when these conditions are in place, they develop violently by removing enzymes that degrade the layers in the optics and blur the optics. By altering its qualities.
Many people claim that once their lenses have been affected even after cleaning, they do not have the same optical qualities as before.
That’s not true!
The only damage after proper cleaning can only be noticed / only in those who have not been cleaned for years when shooting in the opposite direction and it is very difficult. By this I do not mean that it is not wise to protect your optics and take proper care of it!
Later, I will deal with this problem because I know from experience that most photographers do not store their optics correctly.
Proper lens cleaning is critical to preserve optical qualities. I have encountered any strange ideas on the internet, starting with cleaning with ash from a cigarette, toilet milk, grinding fluid for vehicle glass … to become particularly harmful to the optics, such as mixing Perhydrole and Ammonia and soaking the optical elements in this brine – without knowing the essence of the process of applying the lens enlightenment, as well as the anti-reflective coatings. All of these methods are far more dangerous than the fungus themselves and cause serious damage to the optical qualities of a lens.

What you need to know, must!
Every lens is mounted on a stand that you can not buy in Bulgaria, as far as I know there is only one. For this reason, when disassembling the lens, you must carefully mark the position of each optical component relative to the optical tube before removing it for cleaning. If you are not versatile and do not have the tools you need, and it’s about one or two lenses, look for qualified help – tools are considerably more expensive than repairing 5-6 lenses. But if you pull and are determined to masters, at least look for schemas of proper disassembly of a lens – on the internet you will find a lot of the popular lens. There are intricately complicated constructions, even on hard lenses, and if the lens is a zoom, my advice is to never try it.
But the councils are one and the merrakes altogether. So, here’s what you need and how to do fungi cleaning – professionally.

Preparations and tools
1. Toppsin-M 70 VDG – Wide-range, Systemic Fungicides for the Prevention of Fungal Diseases produced by – NISSO CHEMICAL EUROPE GmbH
2.Norelle (NurelleD) – a combined organophosphorus-pyrethroid insecticide, with a pronounced ionic action provided by cepermetrine and a long-lasting action provided by chlorpyrifos-ethyl. The product acts as a contact, stomach and money.
3.Petroleum ether /
4. W5 Degreaser
5. Cleaning agent for optics.
6. Household or surgical gloves – latex fingers.
7. Eyelids to clean.
8.White wipes – without fragrance.
9. Isopropyl alcohol (Iso propanol).
10. Distilled water.
11.Buddy
12. Optics chalk

Process
It is assumed that you have already disassembled the lens.
1. Mix 1 part ether with 1 part isopropyl alcohol. Using an eyepiece, apply this solution on the optic element. The solution is rapidly volatile and does not have to dry the component.
2. Mix 2-part distilled water with 1 part isopropyl alcohol. Apply a new swab on the component.
3. When the optical element is dry, prepare a 1: 4 solution – Toppsin-M 70 VDG and distilled water. With another swab, you can also use a clean brush to paint with water paints and apply the detergent to the element. Wait to dry.
4. Remove the preparation with plenty of warm water – 38-40 gr.
5. Mix Nurel D and distilled water in a 1: 1 ratio. Apply with a new swab or brush on the optical component. The preparation is very poisonous, including its money, so watch outdoors and do not breathe vapors. If you breathe them, you will understand the need to follow this advice.
Let it dry.
6.Dry the preparation thoroughly with hot water – 38-40 gr.
7. With the reconstituted solution of point 1. apply on the component.
8. Apply 3 times W5, waiting each time to dry out of the country where the fungi are located.
9.Remize the preparation thoroughly with warm water – 38-40 gr.
Fungi are gone, not only are they dead, but their bodies are removed.
10. Put on your gloves – the reason for using them is that as you wash your hands, there will always be a scent that sticks to the optic – and carefully wipe the excess water with a handkerchief.
11. Re-use the solutions of items 1 and 2 as described. If you do not have a liquid to clean the optics, there is no problem with the solution of item 2 you can do the same job.
12. With a lens cleaner, carefully clean the optical element by observing no traces at an angle.
13. If it is necessary to blow out the small dust removal elements.
14. Place the element in place and fix it.

Several other things, which are not unimportant:
– Do not rub with the swab on the optical component and apply the chemicals by touch. There can always be a solid body.
– Do not push when you wipe.
– If you have small optical components – usually at the bottom of the lens – use a silicon suction cup with a pump to remove and place the component.
– Strangle the disassembled components in one direction only and in the order you will need to return them to the tube.
If it is not necessary to dismantle all optical elements due to lack of visible traces of fungi, it is good to put the lens on a small splinter in a plastic bag after dropping the affected component and drop 3-4 drops of Nurele D at the bottom of the envelope. Then close it by tied it and leave it for 12 hours.
This will dehumidify your lens.

In conclusion, I would like to say that the fungi can not damage the lightening layer, they only destroy the anti-reflection coating and if no measures are taken for many years to remove them.

Storing Optics / Lenses /
It is best to keep the lenses that are not used in hermetically sealed transparent containers.
They must have their caps removed from their back and lie vertically on their front cap.
In the container, it is good to have a Silicagel to cure excess moisture.
During 6 months, it is advisable to place a tampon with 2-3 drops of Nurele E.
And you certainly will not have to clean the fungus. There is no point in the overwhelming stories with UV lamps – too luxurious and nothing better.

Lens cleaning
Cleaning the lens seems to be familiar and extremely easy and complete
safe process. Unfortunately, this is not the case.
Undoubtedly modern lenses – I am referring to those produced in the 1960s. till present days –
have become considerably more protective most of the front lenses that suffer the most
mechanical impacts, but still fragile enough to be seriously damaged
in case of incorrect actions.
The poorly cleaned lens – especially its ultimate optical component – sharply
affects the optical image and optical qualities of the lens itself. Must be
whereas, for a number of reasons, unlike the front lens, the end is not so
protected against mechanical effects and in cleaning and attention should be
be increased.
I will try to describe the order and proper lens cleaning so that it can be lowered
but at least the possibility of damage to the surface.
Very often, looking at the lens from the front, it looks very clean to us, but
it is enough to look at the optical surface under 45 degrees, or to light on it
to make sure it is not clean. In view of this, almost invisible pollution would not
it has to affect the lens, be sure it affects and it’s rather unpleasant. that’s why
these dirt usually on the periphery of the optical components should
be removed to get the most out of our lens. No matter how careful you are
keep the lens around our air saturated with pollutants, put them on
optics, especially in the city.
So, I hope I have persuaded you to clean your lenses regularly, especially after
shooting.
Myths:
1. The lens, if kept and not touching your fingers, does not need cleaning.
2. The lightening layer is damaged by cleaning chemicals, that’s enough
to be cleaned with a breath or with a tampon standing over steam.
3. The lens is reliably shielded from dirt if a filter is placed on it.
4. The optical element has a very fragile finish.
5. And so on.
What do you need to clean a lens?
1. Optical cleaning brush for photographic brushes – watercolor brush from
big numbers.
2. Rubber pear with plastic cuff for blowing out the lens – desirable with
greater useful volume.
3. Soft cloth with good absorbing ability, no lint.
4. Paper handkerchiefs not flavored.
5. Ears – the most common.
6. A lens cleaner that does not leave traces of pollutants
Thirsty producers and retailers keep the special recipes of
“magic remedies to clean optics,” selling us something that’s worth it
under 5 pounds per liter at unbelievable prices. Here are 3 main recipes of the best:
1. Methanol / Primary Alcohol /, it is a major participant in all three recipes. This,
which sells us is 99% purity and residue after evaporation 7ppm, but we will
we buy for laboratory analysis – the price is less than 5 leva per liter at a price of 16 to 30 leva. but
with some inscription: The second participant is Distilled Water – not for batteries
is appropriate.
Mix 20 ml. Methanol and 2 mL. Distilled water – this is most often sold
product on the market under different names.
2. The second recipe is a very famous company. It contains another component –
Petroleum ether. It is priced at 12lv. Ch.A.A.
Mix 20 ml. Methanol + 2 ml. Distilled water + 4 ml. Petroleum ether.
3. And the most popular recipe, both American and German
manufacturers is simply Methanol – chemically pure 99% with water content
200ppm., Quite practical, there is no time to mix just spilling and price
per liter is less than 3 lv.

Whichever recipe you choose, or show creativity, for example, to add
more distilled water so you can rub off for a longer time – the attitude
alcohol water can be a maximum of 3: 1! You will get the magical solution for
quality lens cleaning. In no case, however, do not rush –
eg experiment with surfactants for glass, etc.!
Before we get started, we’ll have to bring our inventory to readiness:
1. The brush should be degreased. To do this, we make a 3: 1 solution
Methanol; Petroleum ether r 4-5 times immerse and brush the brush. Then
we repeat the same procedure but only in Methanol. Let the brush open to
dry out. If our brush is without a cap you will have to either keep it in good condition
or fit a tight-fitting cap.
2. If you have purchased a new blower, blow several times with it with maximum power,
before targeting it to optical surfaces – it’s good to always do this.
The jet that ejects such a gear is at a higher speed than
the maximum strength of the coating of the optical components and if
accidental in it has come to a solid body depending on its mass is
it is possible to defeat the coating of the optical element.
3. Whatever matter you prefer for your soft cloth before you use it
you should wash it in neutral soap a few drops. And repeatedly to her
then rinse. This cloth should only be touched on one side and it should be
well protected in a packaging or case preventing the possibility of falling
of solid particles on it. It should only touch the optical ones
components and not to be used otherwise.
We can now move on, to clean the lens.
1. Blow the optical surface with the blower.
2. Gently clean the brush with no pressure.
3. We’re blowing again.
4. Pour the cleaning solution of a paper napkin into the required amount –
never drop on the optical component.
5. Gently clean the component without pressure.
6. With a new napkin, take up the excess non-vaporized solution.
7. With the handkerchief, if necessary, finish the cleaning.
8. Eyelets are used to clean the periphery of the optical element.
A few words about cleaning the last optical component. If
it is available, cleaning is as described above, if it is difficult
accessible instead of handkerchiefs using ear sticks. The cheaper they are,
the more certain it is that they are pure cotton and this is the main thing in this case.